FoodBuzz 24, 24, 24: Virginia Farmland Summer Solstice Supper

The local food movement has gathered steam over the last two decades, bringing with it an intent to educate the American public about the food they eat.  Considered one of the founders of this movement, Alice Waters has been championing organic and locally grown, in season produce for years.  Her teachings have helped to bring about a higher consciousness of agribusiness and how it feeds us.  Taking this idea of following the food we eat from its beginnings one step further, Michael Pollan’s “The Omnivore’s Dilemma” showed how corn truly is king in the United States.  This movement towards more informed food choices is even the subject of a new documentary, Food Inc.  And as more people demand to be better informed about the food they are placing on their family table, farmers markets have become a hot commodity.

The desire to speak directly with those who are growing your food has helped to make the farmers market concept popular throughout the United States.  In the DC metro area, there are well over 30 farmers markets (in my neighborhood alone, there are three).  These markets not only help to bring healthy, quality, locally grown produce to the urbanites of DC, it also provides the farmers a steady consumer base for their products.  The markets also give consumers the opportunity to learn about the farms and the farmers, providing a direct pipeline of information from the farm to the table.  This concept of understanding the transition from the farm to the table has been taken one step further with farm to table events.  One such event was held in Loudon County, Virginia on the Moutoux Orchard and hosted by Vermillion Restaurant.  I was lucky enough to be able to attend thanks to a proposal I submitted for the FoodBuzz 24, 24, 24 monthly blog event.  So last Saturday, under a gorgeous blue sky, I headed out to Loudoun County, Virginia to find out where my food comes from.

Vermillion Restaurant, located in Old Town Alexandria, Virginia, is known for its conscientious efforts to use locally sourced produce, meats, dairy products and other ingredients.  Executive Chef Tony Chittum, a recent Rammy award winner for Rising Culinary Star, seeks out local farmers and producers to partner with, bringing farm fresh ingredients to the heart of Old Town.  Out of this partnership came the natural progression of bringing diners to the farm itself for an evening of stellar food and the chance to break bread with those who grew it.  The setting for this event was the Moutoux Orchard in Purceville, Virginia, a little more than an hour’s drive from Washington, DC.  The Moutoux Orchard is a tapestry of beautiful trees bearing the fruit of their famous peaches.  Driving up to the site, I saw an endless stretch of the peach trees juxtaposed against a crisp, blue sky.  The orchard has been owned by the Moutoux family for three generations and has expanded with its own community supported agriculture program.  Their fruits can also be found at the Dupont Circle Farmers Markets on Sunday mornings.  Rob Moutoux, Jr. has also begun growing wheat, spelt, rye and barley, using chemical free farming practices.  The Moutoux family graciously opened up its orchard for the Summer Solstice Supper, allowing guests to meander around their orchards and fields.

The event started with a reception in the peach orchard, which included a selection of Horton Wines.  Dennis Horton first began making wines in earnest in 1983 on a small vineyard in Virginia.  Dennis grew his vineyard into a very successful winery, bringing distinctly French winemaking techniques to the Virginia countryside.  After carefully researching the numerous variety of grapes, Dennis found that the Viognier plant would thrive in the humid Virginia climate.  His work with these grapes have led to award winning wines, including the first and only sparkling Viognier wine in the world, the “Dom Virginion”.  I was hesitant to try any of the wines because I am not an oenophile and find that wines tend to muddy my taste buds.  However, after hearing the compliments being bandied around the reception, I decided to try their orchard peach champagne cocktail, a glass of their Sparkling Viognier NV with a splash of their peach wine.  I was pleasantly surprised by the clean and crisp flavor of the cocktail and the immediate essence of peach permeating it.  I will not even begin to attempt a description of its taste, as I haven’t a clue what terms wine lovers use to describe it.  But I will say the cocktail left me with a willingness to try the other wines available throughout the night.

To offset the flow of wine, platters of appetizers were circulated throughout the white tent erected for the reception.  Fresh sausage was tossed with a snap pea slaw while the sweetness of beets was paired with an Alberene ash goat cheese.  The start of Summer squash season was heralded with grilled Summer squash coupled with a Virginia feta.  And fresh eggs were highlighted in a frittata of potatoes, leeks and Virginia ham.  All of the produce was harvested the day before – evident by the sweetness of the beets and the tangy earthiness of the squash.  A live blue grass band rounded out the trifecta of good wine, good food and good music, making for a lovely start to the warm Summer night.

We were allowed to wander around the orchard, so I headed off to take a closer look at the peach trees.  Being from Georgia, I should be more familiar with peach orchards and trees.  Sadly, however, my years in Augusta did not afford me the opportunity to pick my own peaches straight from the trees.  Because of this, I never had a fresh peach until I moved to Washington, DC.  And one of the very first peaches I ate was a Moutoux Orchard peach I bought from the Dupont Circle Farmers Market.  The peach was sweet and soft, reminding me nothing of the hard and bitter peaches I was used to from the neighborhood Piggly Wiggly.  The Moutoux Orchard was breathtakingly beautiful, a surreal experience coming from the concrete of DC to the serenity of this striking land.  Not far from the barn was a small patch of lettuce, some of the very same varieties I had purchased that morning from the 14th & U farmers market.  Some of the lettuce was hooded with thick plastic sheeting, one of the many non-chemical methods used by farmers to ward off pests.  And even further out was a staked out pen of chickens, all freely roaming the land and eating the grass.  Unlike the crowded pens of the larger chicken companies, there were only a small amount of chickens aimlessly wandering a large section of land.  After seeing footage of the Purdue and Tyson chicken coops, it was refreshing to watch these animals walk around free of cages.

The reception gave guests the chance to not only sample the Horton Wines, but also a wonderful opportunity to speak with the farmers.  Ellen Polishuk of Potomac Vegetable Farms, one of my favorite Takoma Park Farmers Market vendors, discussed how Potomac Vegetable Farm is actually a consortium of three farmers working land in Fairfax and Loudoun County.  Ellen works 20 of the 180 acres of land owned by the Newcombs in Loudoun County, while Hiu Newcomb and her daughter Hana work the original farm land in Vienna.  Ellen begun working the original Vienna farm back in the ‘70’s because of her interest in farming and alternative farming practices.  Organic farming got its first huge hay day in the ‘70s and Ellen was fascinated by using non-chemical techniques to grow produce.  Her passion led her to get a degree in horticulture from Virginia Tech.  Now the manager of the production farm in Loudoun County, Ellen takes seriously the business of organic farming.  On several occasions throughout the evening, Ellen was more than happy to discuss her love of composting and offered tips on modified composting for those who live in the heart of a bustling city like DC.  She jokingly lamented the problems with deer, saying they just adore beets.  As a deterrent, the farms cover the crops with the thick, white plastic sheeting I saw earlier covering the lettuce.  Fencing also is used to help keep the deer away from the crops and was evident all around the orchard and neighboring farmland.

Organic farming techniques were a continued point of conversation throughout the night.  Chip and Susan Planck of Wheatland Vegetable Farms were happy to talk about the methods they used to preserve their crops without the use of chemicals.  The Plancks have been farming since the early 70’s and have always had an eye for using methods that were ecologically friendly.  “It’s not just good food, it’s a responsible way of life,” Susan said, echoing the same sentiment heard over and over during the night.  Like Ellen, the Plancks first started working on the Potomac Vegetable Farms in the ‘70s.  Out of their work came a strong love of the land and of farming, leading them to start their own farm on 35 acres of land adjacent to the Potomac Vegetable Farms.  Chip sees himself not only as a farmer but a steward of the land, passing on what he’s learned to the many college students who work the land during their Summers.  Like the Newcomb family, Chip and Susan want to pass on the information they’ve learned to encourage future generations to continue the legacy of sustainable agriculture and responsible farming.  Although they had been working earlier in the day, the Plancks showed no signs of fatigue as they mingled with the guests at the reception.

As it reached closer to dinner time, Clare Parker, director of private dining, special events and wholesale accounts for the Neighborhood Restaurant Group (the force behind Vermillion among other noted DC area restaurants), suggested I head over to the farm to get pictures of the table before the start of the meal.  The walk from the orchard to the farm took us through Rob’s wheat fields, the golden rods blowing seductively in the breeze.  Because so many of us had never seen wheat fields, several groups stopped along the way to take pictures of the stalks.  During the reception, I heard Rob say his intent was to mill some of the wheat, barley and rye into flour and possibly sell it at DC farmers markets.  As an avid baker, the thought of having locally milled flour to work with was almost mind blowing.  Rob said he was still working on getting approved to sell it at a few markets, but believed he would be starting as soon as the end of July.  Seeing the wheat that could potentially be milled into the very flour I use brought this experience full circle.  As we continued on, I saw an entire patch of rainbow chard off to the side of where the dinner tables were placed.  “I just picked up some rainbow chard this morning at Arlington,” I heard a guest say, referring to the Arlington Farmers Market, where both Potomac and Wheatland Vegetable Farms sell their produce.  This was the essence of this farm to table experience:  seeing the very food you eat growing from the Earth and being served to you on a platter.

The dinner table was a long expanse of white jutting out from the green of the farmland.  A makeshift kitchen was set up close by, with Tony and his staff working feverishly over the open flames of the grill.  To allow for the guests to easily talk with the farmers during dinner, certain spots were “booked” for them.  Ellen and her husband Richard were seated two seats down on my right, while Susan and Chip sat one seat down on my left.  Georgia O’ Neal and Zach Lester of Tree and Leaf Farm were seated further down the table, but Georgia made a point of introducing herself to the other sections of the table.  “I’m just glad the weather is so beautiful for tonight,” she exclaimed as shook hands with those who regularly buy her produce at Dupont Circle, Falls Church and Mt. Pleasant Farmers Markets.  A New York City native, Georgia married Zach in 2002.  Together they turned Zach’s gardening business into a successful year round farm, emphasizing a pesticide free, sustainable approach to farming.  Located in Waterford, Virginia, Tree and Leaf Farm celebrate the cycles of nature, growing produce with the seasons.  In addition to their sales at local farmers markets, Tree and Leaf have their own community supported agriculture program, allowing consumers to buy shares of their farms harvest.

I sat next to an engaging couple I had met earlier during the reception, Amy and Ryan (not their real names – I forgot to ask for permission to use their names).  Both strong proponents of buying local, they made for wonderful dinner companions.  The first course was set before us, a chicory salad with deviled eggs and a Summer squash and cornbread panzanella.  The eggs were gathered that very morning from the chicken coops, bringing new meaning to farm fresh eggs.  The yolk was smooth and creamy, requiring little seasonings to bring out its rich flavor.  Knowing this, Tony and his staff used a minimal amount of ingredients to create the deviled egg, allowing its natural flavors to shine.  The salad course was paired with Horton’s Viognier 2008, a crisp wine that didn’t interfere with the taste of the food.  Ryan jokingly tried to get his wife Amy’s deviled egg, but was quickly rebuffed.  Ellen commented that the chicory salad greens were fresh from the farm that day, something that was evident by its sharp flavors.  The greens were tossed lightly with a vinaigrette of freshly picked herbs, providing an added depth to the salad.  The couple to my right, Carlea and Geoff, was frequent Vermillion guests and commented that the salad was quintessential Tony.  The buzz of conversation went up and down the large table, giving the dinner a communal feeling.  But plates were quickly polished off, with compliments to the chef echoing throughout the field.

The second course was quickly placed in front of us, a duo of the region’s seafood accented with fresh vegetables.  A Virginia wrapped local scallop was paired with a Hampton jumbo lump crab cake, served on large, family style platters to encourage guests to pass the plate and start a conversation.  The Boy was hesitant to try the crab cake because he wasn’t a fan of seafood.  Geoff encouraged him to at least give it a try, saying “Since you’re here, you may as well get the full experience!”  Convinced, he took a crab cake and scallop, taking a small bite of the crab cake first.  Even though he’d grown up on the Eastern Shore, his previous experiences with crab cakes had left him with a less than favorable impression.  But the simplicity of the jumbo lump crab meat tossed with fresh herbs won him over.  “This is a damn good crab cake,” he proclaimed as he continued to dig in.  Although he didn’t like the texture of the scallop, he appreciated the freshness of both the scallop and its ham companion.  The crab cake was served on a bed of oak leaf lettuce, tossed with the same fresh herb vinaigrette used on the chicory salad.  Rounding off the second course was a crudo of spring root vegetables, including fresh radishes and beets.  The gorgeous, deep red of the beets permeated the rest of the crudo, giving the dish a bejeweled quality.  The second course was paired with my favorite wine of the evening, Horton’s Petit Manseng 2007.

During the break between the second and third courses, I was able to get a closer look at the kitchen created in the middle of the farm land.  Tony, an easy going and affable guy, chatted freely with guests as he maneuvered the Piedmontese beef, rabbit and bison skirt steak around the huge, open flamed grills.  “The menu was driven by the harvest,” he said as he wiped his brow and turned over a massive piece of beef.  Tony’s drive to use local produce started with a simple pursuit of quality ingredients.  This pursuit led Tony and Vermillion to partner with local food sources, bringing the farm straight to the diners at the restaurant.  As they worked more and more with local food producers, their commitment to these producers grew stronger.  Events like the Summer Solstice Supper allows Vermillion to bring their diners in contact with the farms who supply feed them.  It also gives the diners an opportunity to learn how to incorporate more local foods into their diets.  Carlea lamented the fact that she and Geoff have yet to take advantage of the farmers markets in their area.  A chorus of farmers market suggestions met Carlea’s statement, ranging from the Arlington Courthouse market to the one held in Old Town early on Saturday mornings year round.  Geoff being the foodie of their family said he would love the opportunity to cook with farm fresh ingredients and we all encouraged him to do so.  “The difference in taste is phenomenal…after having a fresh beet, you can never go back to that vile stuff they throw in a can!” Ryan said, proudly showing off his “Support Local” t-shirt.

Before the third course was presented, a Cabernet Franc 2006 appeared in my glass.  Although I’m not a fan of reds, I could appreciate the clear, full bodied taste of the Cabernet and believed it to be a fitting accompaniment to the New Frontier Farm Mixed Grill.  The grill included the aforementioned Piedmontese beef, a rabbit terrine and a bison skirt steak.  Served with a red potato salad tossed in sheep’s milk yogurt and fresh dill, the meat was the star of the meal.  Seasoned only to bring out the meat’s natural flavors, the cuts were succulent and delicious.  The skirt steak was unbelievably velvety, almost melting in my mouth.  As with the second course, the mixed grill was served on heaping platters.  By this time in the dinner, everyone was relaxed and old friends, so the plates were passed around as if it was a family dinner.  As the plate was passed, the passer attempted to tell the recipient which meats were which.  This, however, proved to be difficult as we’d all had a lovely amount of wine at this point.  An attitude of “whatever, it’s all delicious” was adopted as the plates moved along the table.  The potato salad was a creamy mix of fresh dill and tangy yogurt, neither of which took away from the freshness of the red potatoes.  As with the other courses, the diners made quick work of the meat course, opting for seconds (and sometimes thirds).  The sun was beginning to set, bathing the table in an aura of oranges and reds.  The sight of the setting sun on the crops situated near the table only seemed to echo the significance of the meal.  Everything I had eaten throughout the reception and meal came from the very land I was sitting on.  The hard work of the farmers to my left and my right were celebrated by each dish and made me appreciate my close proximity to farm country all the more.

Throughout the meal, strangers conversed easily with each other, trading local food source tips and recipes to highlight the bounty of this season.  Email addresses and phone numbers were exchanged as more and more people realized how much they had in common with those they considered strangers at the start of the meal.  As dessert was served, everyone tucked into the Caromont Farm Chevre Cheesecake placed before them.  A strawberry black pepper preserves and Chantilly cream sauce accented the cheesecake, a mellower version of the heavier, traditional ricotta and cream cheese cheesecakes.  A sweet but flavorful Late Harvest Viognier NV was paired with the cheesecake – and a favorite of several of my dinner companions.  The knowledgeable servers explained how harvesting the grapes later allow for a sweeter, almost port like white wine.  Although heavier than all the other wines served throughout the meal, the Late Harvest Viognier was still a crowd pleaser.  The beautiful weather we were fortunate enough to enjoy threatened to take a turn when a few drops were released from the sky.  No one rushed to leave, however; the meal and the conversation were too good to rush.  Carlea and I discovered our families were from South Georgia – the very same city in fact!  We talked small towns, fireflies and Piggly Wiggly, while The Boy and Ryan discussed their shared career of computers.  Geoff met a fellow foodie to his left and plans were discussed for a foodie throw down sometime in the near future.  The farmers talked about their farms, but also about their love of food and their everyday lives.  Ellen said she didn’t work any of the Sunday farmers markets because, “We all have to have one day of rest, right?”  And Sandy freely admitted her unabashed love for the comfortable Crocs, a fashion no-no in the city but a wonderful treat for farmers’ feet.

A final treat of Virginia peanut cookies was served along with iced espresso before Tony came out to greet all the diners.  A rousing round of applause greeted him, along with flashes of cameras and shouts of praise.  He graciously accepted the compliments and chatted with every section of the table before heading back to clean up.  As we all headed back up to the orchard to our cars, full and happy, the sun gave way to night.  The very fireflies Carlea and I discussed seemed to be lighting the path back to the orchard, reminding me that I was a long way from the city.  This was a unique event, allowing the consumer and the producer to come together over the very food that binds them.  A celebration of the season and the hard workers who bring it to us every week, the supper was a huge success.  And I walked away richer in the knowledge that I truly know where my food is coming from.

Click here for the full set of photographs I took from this wonderful meal!